Part XXII.5: Index and Notes to the Wardrobe Accounts: Patens, of leather… through Sparowe, Thomas.

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Index and Notes to the Wardrobe Accounts: Patens, of leather… through Sparowe, Thomas.

  • Patens, pairs of, of leather: Paten for a fote, galoche. —Palsgrave. A pair then cost one shilling.
  • Paylets: See PAILLETS.
  • Phillip, Agneys: See Part XVII, second entry under “Reparacion off the Kinges Carre.”
    Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Pillion, to make a, for the Duchess of Burgundy: See Part XX, under “Office off the Stable.” Transcriber’s Note. Because his edition was compiled in the early 19th century, when they were still in common use, Nicolas gives no definition, but Funk & Wagnall’s Standard Dictionary: International Edition describes them as “pad on a horse’s back, behind the saddle, on which a second person may ride; formerly used by women.”
  • P’is candle: Although numerous examples of the use of the term “P’is candle,” “Paris candle,” “Peris candle,” and “Perisch candle” have been found, its precise meaning has not been ascertained.“Prociphis, discis, platellis, salsar, candel paris’ et quatuour lib’ cere ad celebracionem divinorum in capella, emptis.” &c. –Wardrobe Accounts of the 28th Edward I., p. 137. The editor of that work erroneously guesses that it meant either a pair of candlesticks, or “Parisian,” as Paris, he adds, “is 20lbs. weight or measure,” but the authority for the assertion does not bear out the inference, for “Paris” in the passages cited [p.351] clearly refers to 20l. of money, i.e., money struck at Paris which was worth a fourth more than that struck at Tours. Roquefort en voce “Parisis.”
    “Of parisch candle viij doson lb. after xij d. the dosson.” —Northumberland Household Book, p. 2. “To make provision for iiij score xj dosson ij lb. of parisch candle for the expense of my house for one hole yere after xij d. the dosson.” Ibid. p. 14. “The sergeant of the bakehouse etith in the hall: his lyverey for all nyght is one gallon ale; wynter lyverey, one candyll wax, ij candylles peris’, one talwood, one litter and russhes,” &c. ” vj candelles wax, viij peris‘, viij tallow.” Liber Niger Domus Regis Edw. IV., 1790, 4to, p. 56, 69. “Candells peris,” or “candelles perich,” are often mentioned in other parts of those regulations, pp. 43, 44, 45, &c. Peris’ candles are not noticed in the Regulations for the Royal Household in any other place than in the Liber Niger above cited, but the same article seems to be meant by “white lights,” in the Regulations of the Households of George Duke of Clarence, 9th Edward IV., and of Henry VII., A{o} 1494. “The groome porter shall fetche noe woode, white lightes, ne wax,” &c. pp. 90, 103, 141.
  • Pillows; –beres of Holland cloth: Pillow cases. The word occurs in Chaucer, and in many early writers. “In his male he had a pilwe bere.” Prolog. Cant. Tales, l. 696.
  • Pointmaker, John: A pointer of laces.
  • Points of various kinds: Points or short tagged laces, were strings or fastenings for hosen. “Poynt for ones hose, esquilette.” — Palsgrave. Those mentioned in these Accounts were generally of silk riband, pointed with ageletes of laton. Among the effects of Henry V. were 380 “poyntes d’argent dorr,” which were valued at 2l. 1s. 4d.; and seventeen small points, and twelve large and six bosses “d’argent ennorez sauns laces.” —Rot. Parl., iv., 223, 225.
  • Powderings; –made of bogy leggs; –of shanks: Small pieces of fur powdered or sprinkled on others resembling the spots on ermine. Palsgrave had “powdered armyns a furre, peau de ermyns.
    Powdered meant sprinkled over, and “powdered beef,” i.e., beef sprinkled with salt, is still in use. William Bruges, Garter King of Arms, in his will in 1449, bequeaths “a chesible diacones, for decones, or frees of white clothe of gold powdered with garters.” “A pair of vestments of white damask, powdered with bears and ragged staves of gold,” Will of Elizabeth Lady Latimer, 1480. Testamenta Vestuta, pp. 266, 356, and many other instances might be cited. See Index to that work, pp. 583, 855, 857.
  • Puke: Puke is explained in Todd’s Johnson, to mean a colour “between black and russet, now called puce, and which is proved by examples there cited; but it is manifest, from the entries, that it also meant a particular kind of cloth: “hosen of puke;” iij quarters puke for to make iij paire of hosen;” “hosen ij paire grene,” “ij paire blac puke.” From the manner in which the word occurs in the History of Hengrave, it is doubtful whether it there means the colour or the material, for immediately after gowns of scarlet, violet, sad-colour, and russet, follow “an olde gowne of puke furred with badger coarse;” “an olde gowne of puke forefaced with velvitt, and lyned with satten of cypress.” –p. 117.
  • Pursuivant: See HASTINGS.
  • Pykering, John: Citizen and mercer of London.
  • Pyne, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.

  • Queen, the, a gown given to: See Part XX, 13th entry under “Yiftes Yeven Aswelle…”
    her chamber in the Great Wardrobe: See Part XVIII, initial entry under “Reparacion Maade and Doon to Diverse Tenementes…”
  • Quarterons: i.e., quarters.

  • Ratcliff, Sir James: Knight of the king’s body. He was appointed to attend on the Duchess of Burgundy on her visit to this country, and received a yard of blue and a yard of purple velvet for his jacket on the occasion. Sir James bore the banner of Our Lady at the funeral of Edward IV. —Archæologia, i., 350.
  • Rawson, Richard: Alderman of London.
  • Ray, velvet: Striped velvet. “To my Lord Percy for his lyvery a yerde of narowe violet cloth and a yerde of narow rayd cloth.” —Northumberland Household Book, p.347.
  • Rentegeder of the wardrobe: The rent-gatherer.
  • Repairs of the tenement belonging to the wardrobe: See initial entries, Part XVIII, under “Reparacion Maade and Doon to Diverse Tenementes…”
  • Reynford, Humphrey: One of the persons sent to attend on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Ribands, various: Numerous citations. See CORSES.
  • Richmond, Roger: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Rings of various kinds: Transcriber’s Note. Mentioned several times, invariably in relation to arras or bed hangings.
  • Rither, William: One of the individuals sent to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy. From his being allowed a servant, he must have been a person of condition, and was probably the William Ryder, one of the yeoman ushers who attended Edward’s funeral. —Archæologia, i., 353.
  • Rivers, Earl: Anthony Wydville, Lord Scales, second Earl Rivers, K.G., the king’s brother-in-law; he was beheaded in 1483, and died S.P.
  • Robeux: Query rubbish.
  • Robes, furring of the king’s: See Part XVII, second to last entry in initial grouping of entries. —office of the: See Part XIX: Goods Delivered into the Office of the Beds and the Office of the Robes.
  • Roses, embroidered on various articles: The frequent occurrence of a rose is explained by its being the favourite badge of the house of York.
  • Ruddeur, garters of: No other example of the use of the word “rudde” has been found, excepting in Chaucer, and where it is presumed to mean complexion.

    “His lippes red as rose,
    His rudde is like scarlet in grain, &c.” —Rime of Sir Thopas, 13657; and in a similar sense in the Miller’s Tale.
    “his rode was red, his eyen grey as goos,” l. 3317.

    In these accounts rudde and ruddeur evidently meant the material of which the garters were made.

  • Rushes, burdons of: Rooms were strewed with rushes so lately as the reign of Elizabeth. Archdeacon Nares in his Glossary has cited many passages from our early poets on the subject.
  • Ryder, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Rysley, John: An esquire of the king’s body; he attend Edward IV’s funeral. —Archæologia, i., 350, 352.
    In the Act of Resumption 13th Edward IV., a John Rysley, Esq. was protected from its effects, and he was probably the Sir John Rysley, Knight, whose attainder in the 1st Richard III was reversed in the 1st Henry VII., and who was steward of the Duchy of Lancaster in the counties of Herts and Essex, &c.; was one of the king’s feoffees 7th Henry VII; and who is afterwards mentioned on the Rolls of Parliament. —Rot. Parl.,vi., 84, 274, 355, 444, 473, 510, 540, 531.

  • Sables: See initial entries in Part XVII and those in Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Saddles, for making: See Part XVII, third entry under “Yit Expenses Necessarie.”
    of estate; covering of: See Part XX, 3rd and 4th entry under “For Th’office of the Stable,” and first entry under “Yiftes Yeven Aswelle…”
  • Saddlers: See Part XVII, third entry under “Yit Expenses Necessarie.”
  • St. Andrew, church, of near Baynard’s Castle: Transcriber’s Note. A Sir Thomas Williams, Parson of that church was paid a yearly pension of 11s.
  • Sambrooke, Henry: One of the persons appointed to attend on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Sand: See Part XVIII, first entry under “Reparacion Maade and Doon to Diverse Tenementes…”
  • Sarsinetts, for: Transcriber’s Note. Numerous citations in these Accounts, although not described by Nicolas. Funk &Wagnall’s Standard Dictionary: International Edition, defines this as “a fine, thin silk.”
  • Satins: Numerous citations throughout these Accounts.
    siezed, pursuant to a statute: See LUCAS, JOHN, OF KENT.
  • Scales, pair of: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Scarlet cloth; –twelve yards of, to a yeoman of the crown to perform the king’s pleasure, and to deliver it to such persons as the king had commanded him: This present seems to have been a secret one.
  • Scopeham, Richard: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Servants, of the king’s, appointed to attend the Duchess of Burgundy: All of them received jackets of woollen cloth of the royal livery, murrey and blue.
  • Selys: A goldsmith identified only by surname.
  • Shanks: Skins of the legs of an animal.
  • Shapster, Alice: Apparently a semptress and laundress.
  • Sheldone, Richard: One of the auditors of the Exchequer. See CLERK, JOHN.
  • Sheets, of various sizes and kinds: See HEAD SHEETS and FOOT SHEETS.
  • Shirts: Transcriber’s Note. When the 1480 inventory of the wardrobe was taken, the king had 2 dozen. Eight elles of Holland cloth was ordered to make shirts for the king’s ward, Thomas Hatthe (See reference to him, ante.), and the abovementioned Alice Shapster was paid 28s. for making & washing the king’s, along with a like number of stomachers, and a dozen handkerchiefs.
  • Shoon, of various kinds: Numerous citations throughout these accounts of shoes owned by the king and, on occasion, given to others.
  • Shukburgh, William: A mercer.
  • Silks: Transcriber’s Note. In these Accounts, this refers to items such as ribbons, corses, thread, &c.
    sewing: Thread; priced and inventoried by the ounce.
  • Skins, divers: See Part XVII, fifth in the initial group of entries.
  • Skinners, wages of: Transcriber’s Note. The skinners who worked in the wardrobe were apparently paid 6d. per day, while a John Easter, who apparently also bought and supplied furs, was granted a yearly reward of 10l.
  • Skinnery, office of the: See Part XIX, entries under “The Office off the Roobes…”
  • Slippers: Numerous citations throughout these Accounts.
  • Sloppes, of various kinds: Slops are explained in most glossaries and dictionaries to mean trowsers, and there can be as little doubt of the fact, as that in the reign of Edward IV, slop was also the name of a kind ofshoe. That they were not slippers is evident, as shoon, slops, and slippers occur in the same entries as distinct articles. Palsgrave in 1530 has “sloppe a night gowne;” and “sloppes hosen,” which he translates by “brayes a marinier,” thus agreeing with the generally received meaning of the word at present. Sloppes is twice used by Chaucer, and each time for a sort of breeches. Sloppe likewise meant “a mourning cassocke for ladies and gentlemen, not open before, and it thus occurs in “liveries for noblemen and gentlemen” at funerals: “a duke to have for his gowne, sloppe, and mantell, sixteen yards;” the same quantity was allowed for the “gown, slop, and mantle” of a marquis, and fourteen yards for those of an earl, but a viscount was only allowed cloth for his gown and mantle, and no allowance was made for sloppes to any inferior person. –Strutt’sDresses and Habits, ii., 323. See also 337, 338. In p. 345, he cites the entries in these Accounts to prove that the ancient estivales or buskins were what was then meant by slops.
    Shoon, sloppe, and botews are frequently mentioned in the account of articles delivered from the Great Wardrobe for the coronation of Richard III. —Antiquarian Repertory, ed. 1807, vol. i., pp. 42, 50, &c.
  • Smiths: See Part XVIII: Initial entries under “Reparacion Maade and Doon in Diverse Tenementes…”
  • Smythson, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Socks (sokkes): See entry in the Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York.
  • Spangles: See entry in the Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York.
  • Sparowe, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to attend the Duchess of Burgundy.