Part XXII.6: Index and Notes to the Wardrobe Accounts: Sparvers through Vraulx, Piers de.

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Index and Notes to the Wardrobe Accounts: Sparvers through Vraulx, Piers de.

  • Sparvers: A sparver is said by Archdeacon Nares “to be the canopy or testor of a bed,” which agrees with the passages he has cited:
    “as quiet sleeps in a bed of cloth as under a sparver of tisshue.” —Harrington. “In silken sparvers, beds of down.” —Ibid.; and with the notices of a sparver in the Regulations for “the Deliverance of a Queene temp. Henry VII.,” but which is there erroneously printed “sperner;” “a royal bedde, with a sperver hanging over.” “Over the pallett a large sperver of crimson satin, with a bowle of gould or silver and guilt; and above the openinge of the same sperver to be embroithered the king’s and queen’s armes, and the residue with crownes of gold.”–p. 125. See also pp. 126, 127.
    At the conclusions of directions for making the king’s bed, temp. Henry VII., printed in that volume, is this passage,” And so then every of them sticke up the aungel about the bedde and to lette downe the corteyns of the sayd bedde or sparver.” —Archæologia, iv., 313, where a sparver is erroneously explained to be “a camp or turn-up bed.”
    Ann, Duchess of Buckingham, in 1480, bequeathed a sparver of red velvet party gold with a counterpoint to the same scarlet. And Sir Edward Poinings, in his will in 1521, speaks of “a sparver of silk with curtains of the same.”
    Among the effects of Henry V., was an “esparver palez de tartarin vert, blanc et vermaille, de novel facion pris 40s.” –Rot. Parl., iv. 231. The notices of sparvers in these Accounts afford a perfect idea of their appearance, and prove that they were, in fact, the whole of the frame work of a bed to which the curtains, valances, &c., were attached, and were not the canopy or testor only. –See more particularly the description of them in Part XIX, entries 5 and 7 under “For the Office off the Beddes…”
  • Speringchain, for the king’s car: See Part XVII, under “Reparacion off the Kinges Carre.”
  • Sprigs, for: A brad or nail without a head.
  • Spurs, hunting: See Part XIX, fourth entry under “For the Office off the Roobes…”
  • Spurs, pairs of, various kinds: Transcriber’s Note. Spurs are mentioned three times, specifically, in these Accounts: first, in the initial entries, as “a paire off blac parcelle gilt” purchased for 5 shillings from the coppersmith; secondly, two pair, one long and one short, are listed in the inventory; and third, a pair of partially gilt, long spurs was delivered to the king, along with several gowns and other articles of clothing.
  • Stable, office of the: See Part XX: Office of the Stable & Gifts Disbursed.
  • Standishes, with weights and scales: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Stanes, Thomas: Porter of the wardrobe.
  • Stanley, Edward: Cupbearer to the king. Probably the Sir Edward Stanley of Hornby, fifth son of Thomas, first earl of Derby, who, for his services at Flodden field, was created Lord Mounteagle in 1514: he was a Knight of the Garter, and died in 1523.
  • Stanhope, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Staple of Calais: Transcriber’s Note. In this instance, the reference is to one Thomas Grafton, a merchant of the Staple of Calais, through whom the king acquired two complete harnesses or, presumably, suits of armor.
  • Stationer: Transcriber’s Note. The reference is to Piers Bauduyn, who bound, gilded, and dressed some books belonging to the king. See BOOKS and BAUDWYN, PIERS.
  • Stomachers: The placard or stomacher, for the terms are synonymous, is an article of dress that frequently occurs in the Inventories of the Wardrobe of Henry VIII., in the Harleian MS. 1419. Half a yard of stuff was always allowed for the king’s placard, and the same quantity for the stomacher, whether it belonged to the king or queen. The placards were made of cloth of gold, cloth of tissue, satin, and other rich materials, and were frequently adorned with jewels. They were used with the gown as well as with the coat and jacket, and were sometimes laced over it, so as to rememble the front of a woman’s stays.” –Strutt’s Dresses and Habits, ii., 361, 376. Among the apparel delivered to Richard III, for his coronation, was a “doublet made of two yerdes and a quarter, and half of blue clothe of gold wroght with netts and pyne apples, with a stromacher of the same lined with oon ell of Holland cloth, and oon ell of busk, instede of grene clothe of gold.” —Archæologia, i., 368.
    “Four stomachers of satten of carnacion, crymson, white and blacke colours, every of them lyned with the same satten” are mentioned in an order to deliver certain articles out of Henry VIII’s Great Wardrobe in 1535. —Archæologia, ix., 247. In the Privy Purse Expenses of Henry VII., 6s. 8d. are said to have been paid for a stomacher, and for “an Estrych skynne for a stomacher, 1l. 4s. It appears from these Accounts that stomachers were sometimes also made of linen, and were washed, as well as of black satin. Palsgrave translates “stomacher for ones brest,” by “estomacher.”
  • Stirrups: Transcriber’s Note. The single reference to these may be found in reference to the “king’s car,” when 8d. was paid to Agneys Philipp for them, along with other items made of iron.
  • Summer clothing of divers officers: Certain of the officers of the king’s household, and persons attending on his person, were entitled to clothes, termed liveries, twice a year for winter and summer. See Part XXI, under “The Somer Clothing of Divers Officers.”
  • Suns embroidered on various articles: See CROWNS.
  • Sutton, Mr.: At his house the ambassadors of France were lodged.
  • Surcingles: See Part XVII, 4th entry under “Yit Expenses Necessarie.”

  • Tables:: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Wardrobe.”
  • Table clothes: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Wardrobe.”
  • Tailloury, office of the: See Part XIX, first entry under “For the Office off the Roobes…”
  • Tallow chandler: Transcirber’s Note. In this instance, the reference is to William Whyte, “taloughchaundeller,” for “pis candell'” for use when the king visited the Great Wardrobe. See P’IS CANDLE.
  • Tapestry, peices of: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Tappettes: Tapets, it appears, was another name for costerings. See COSTERS. In the Privy Purse Expenses of Henry VIII., A{o} 1, is an entry of 20l. “for embroidering diverse tappets for the king’s new gallery,” and 3l. “for fifteen tapetts made for windows in the Tower.” —Additional MS. in the British Museum, 7100. In the Inventory of Sir John Fastolf’s effects are “ij tappettis with clowdes.” —Archæologia, xxi., p. 265. Among the effects of Henry V were numerous tappettes, some with curtains, and some without; they were generally made of worsted: also tapets embroidered with various histories and legends. —Rot. Parl.,iv. 231, et. seq.
    Joan Lady Bergavenny in 1434 bequeathed a bed of velvet white and black paled, with cushions, tappettes, and forms that belong to the same bed, and another bed of blue baudkin, with cushions, tappettes of worsted and forms, &c.
  • Tapet hooks: Hooks belonging to tapets.
  • Tartarin: Transcirber’s Note. Not explained by Nicolas and only mentioned infrequently in these Accounts, E. Partridge, in his 1988 etymological dictionary, gives its meaning as “a cloth or fabric ‘of Tartary.'”
  • Tassels: Transcriber’s Note. In these Accounts, tassels are most often associated with books and the decoration therof.
  • Tawyer, a; for tawing of furs: “Tawer, a dresser of leather.” “To taw, to dress white leather, commonly called alum leather, in contradistinction from tan leather, that which is dressed with bark.” —Todd’s Johnson.
    “I tawe leather as a curryer doeth, je courroye. This oxe hide is not well tawed.” “I tawe a thynge that is styffe to make it soft, je souple. It is styffe yet, but tawe it a lytell.–” —Palsgrave. In the sense in which taw is used in these accounts it appears to mean dressing furs.
  • Tay, –esquire of the body: He was appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy, and received a complete harness and materials for his jacket, on the occasion. He was probably the William Tay, Esq., son of Robert Tay, who obtained a license from the king in 23d Edward IV. —Calend. Rot. Patent., p. 327.
  • Taylor, sergeant: George Lufkyn.
  • Taylors, wages of: Transcriber’s Note. They seem to have been paid from 6 to 8d. per day, the first time their pay is recorded and 6d. per day the only other time their wages are recorded.
  • Tentor hooks: Transcriber’s Note. Undefined by Nicolas, Funk & Wagnall’s Standard Dictionary: International Edition describes them as “a sharp hook for holding cloth while being stretched on a tenter,” or frame to prevent shrinkage while drying.
  • Testors or sparvers: See SPARVERS.
  • Thread: Transcriber’s Note. Staple of the wardrobe, this is frequently mentioned, priced and inventoried by the pound weight. See SILKS. –sewing.
  • Thorneton, William: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Thwaytes, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait upon the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Ticks for beds: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Wardrobe.”
  • Timbres of skins: A timber is forty skins. —Blount.
  • Tippets of black velvet: See entry in the Index and Notes on the Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York.
  • Titus Livius, a book so called: See BOOKS.
  • Tod, Richard: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Topfeld, John: One of the king’s footmen.
  • Towels: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Travasses, or travers: A kind of screen with curtains, used in chapels, halls, and other large rooms. In the account of the ceremony of “creepinge to the crosse” taverses are thus noticed:
    “First the king to come to the chapel or closet, and there to tarry in his traverse the bishop,” &c.; “and this done the queen shall come downe out of her closet or traverse into the chapel,” &c. and then go again to her closet or traverse. —Northumberland Household Book, ed. 1827, p. 436, 437. Dr. Nicholas West, in a letter to Henry VIII, says, “Wednesday I went to Holyrode House wher the kyng herd masse in a chappel without any traverse,” which the editor erroneously explains to be “a retired seat with lattiice work.” –Ellis.s Original Letters, First Series, i., 68.
    “The clerke of the closette perpareth all thinges for the stuffe of the aultres to be redy, and taking upp the traverse; laying the cusshyns necessary for the king and the chapleyns.” &c. —Liber Niger Domus Regis Edward IV., p. 51.
    “We will that our sonne in his chambre and for all night lyverye to be sette, the traverse drawne anone upon eight of the clocke; and all persons from thence to be avoided.” —Regulations for the Household of Edward Prince of Wales, 13th Edward IV., p. 28. Traverses occur among the effects of Henry V. in the Rolls of Parliament. Cecily, Duchess of York, in 1495 gave her son William a traverse of white sarsinet, and to her daughter Katherine a traverse of blue satin. (Transcriber’s Note. The editor cannot possibly be referring to the children of Cecily, Duchess of York, mother of Edward IV and Richard III, who died in 1495 at the age of 80, but might possibly mean her grandaugher, Katherine, [See KATHERINE OF YORK in Part II, Memoirs of the Siblings of Elizabeth of York.] who married William Courtney the same year her grandmother died.); and Katherine Lady Hastings in 1503 bequeathed a traverse of blue sarsinet.
  • Trays for horse, garnished: See Part XVII, entries under “Reparacion off the Kinges Carre.”
  • Treasurer, under, the: John Wood.
  • Trestels: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Trussing: See references in the Index and Notes to the Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York.

  • Underwood, Ralph: A wire-drawer.
  • Ustewaye, Thomas: One of the persons appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Utnard thread: See Part XVII, 15th in the initial entries.
  • Utter margin: i.e., lower margin.

  • Vaghan, Thomas ap Roger: One of the gentlemen appointed to wait on the Duchess of Burgundy.
  • Valences: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe” and Part XIX, fifth and seventh entries under “For the Office off the Beddes…”
  • Vere, Lord George: Probably Sir George Vere, brother of John, thirteenth Earl of Oxford, and father of John, fourteenth Earl. He was a person of some importance, but no cause has been discovered which explains the reason escutcheons of his arms being in the Great Wardrobe.
  • Velvets, divers kinds of: Numerous citations in these Accounts.
  • Venice gold: See Part XVIII: Inventories of the “Grete Warderobe.”
  • Verdours: A particular kind of stuff, perhaps green baize; but the word has not been found in any glossary. Lady Hastings in 1503 bequeathed “all the pieces of hangings of verd that now hang in my chamber and in the parlour.”
  • Veysy, Alice: A tradeswoman.
  • Violet ingrain: See INGRAIN CLOTH.
  • Vraulx, Piers de: A merchant of Mountpelier in Gascony.